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Weekend in Wayanad

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After living in Bangalore, with it's cross-city drives turning out to be day-trips,Mysore seems like a small town. We drive a couple of kilometers and are soon out of the city, heading out towards Gundlupet. There is a steady procession of villagers driving goats, sheep and the occasional bullock towards the city. It's Bakrid, when pious Muslims sacrifice an animal to show their devotion, and the villagers want to sell their livestock when prices are high. Gundlupet, like many small South Indian towns, has one main road where all the prominent landmarks are located - high school, college and government offices. However, it's clean, and the garbage and sewerage have not yet overtaken the town. The roads are lined with decades-old trees as we turn South-West and approach Bandipur National Park. We cross Bandipur and are soon at the entrance of Muthanga National Park. The entrance resembles the Bannerghatta National Park , choked with small kiosks ...

Superheroes

For a nation with centuries of tradition in plays, stories and legends, curiously there are no stories of superheroes in India. Stories of characters like Robin Hood, Superman and masked superheroes are not part of our cultural narratives. And why,indeed, do you need superheroes when you have a God who can cross a sub-continent and an ocean while carrying a mountain, a God, who as a young boy, lifted a mountain with his pinkie, a warrior who fought entire armies single-handedly and yet in the midst of the battle-field could discuss the subtleties of philosophical thought, a prince who renounced his kingdom and would be remembered for centuries as the 'Light of Asia', a monk who crossed the oceans to spread the message of uncompromising non-dualism to the materialistic West and was greeted as a conquering hero when he returned to his motherland ? For centuries, India has ignored political power and wealth as metrics for measuring  greatness. And now, as we race in our efforts t...

Last bus to Bangalore International Airport

The last bus to the Bangalore International Airport, late on a Friday night, weaves through a city that is a ghostly reflection of its daytime avatar and a pale re-creation of what the city roads used to look like a decade ago during daytime. The roads are largely deserted, except for the occasional airport bus or cars that speed by , blinding the traffic in the opposite direction with their high beam headlights. All the small shops that line the inner city commercial areas are shuttered. Autorickshaws are invisible, except for a few in front of theaters waiting to take late night cinema-goers home. Traffic lights stop cycling through the daily routine of red orange and green; the orange lights blink through the night. Bright lights pour on to construction sites where work goes on day and night. Vehicle headlights reveal the dust floating in the atmosphere as old buildings are demolished, foundations dug, and cement is mixed. White Indica cabs with yellow number plates and da...

What's changed in ten years ?

In 1999, the stock market was behaving as though gravity did not exist, people were trying to sell dogfood on the Internet, Google was not much more than a thought experiment and India had 1.2 million mobile subscribers (it's 400 million now). On the personal front, I'm back in Bangalore after ten years, and the city has become a bloated caricature of it's previous self. NASA's Earth observatory has a great set of images cataloging these changes. Urbanization has increased and so has the deforestation of the Amazon rain forests and the ozone hole. Arctic ice has declined, many water bodies have shrunk. Where will be be in 2019 ? In Bangalore, I expect we will have better public transport, more disputes about water, children demanding better education, more private enterprise and lesser government in daily life.

Voting for the Worst

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With the elections fast approaching in India, the leading political parties - BJP and Congress - have started blitzing websites with ads. However, it appears that the electronic campaigning gurus in both parties have not paid much attention to where their ads appear. Both the BJP and Congress  have been competing for banner space in a website called Vote For the Worst whose charter is to ""vote en masse for the contestant that we feel provides the most entertaining performances" It appears that both parties have a good chance of winning in the Vote for the Worst segment  - but the Congress campaign, centered on the Mango Man (Aam Aadmi)  has my Vote for the Worst - for now.

False prophets

With the large number of gurus, tantriks, priests and prophets in the market and in recessionary times, you need to find yourself a good guide. However, you should know that your tantrik is up to no good when he asks for Rs.300,000 to book air tickets and catch a rhino. According to the complaint that the 30-year old woman who was looking for a groom filed, "Shah said that sacrificing a rhino would remove all obstacles and within a week's time I'd get married. I paid Rs 2.95 lakh to perform the puja. He told me that he would book air tickets to go to UP to catch a Rhino and will return after completing the puja."

How to Do

Probably as part of our culture, or as part of our education, we've been indoctrinated to aim for accuracy and completion in our work and that work is not done until it has attained both these objectives. Bob Sutton's "The Cult of Done" Manifesto  has a different take on "doing" things There are three states of being. Not knowing, action and completion. Accept that everything is a draft. It helps to get it done. There is no editing stage. Pretending you know what you're doing is almost the same as knowing what you are doing, so just accept that you know what you're doing even if you don't and do it. Banish procrastination. If you wait more than a week to get an idea done, abandon it. The point of being done is not to finish but to get other things done. Once you're done you can throw it away. Laugh at perfection. It's boring and keeps you from being done. People without dirty hands are wrong. Doing something makes you right. Failure count...

"The Hindu" vs NY Times on China

N.Ram, the red-flag waving editor of The Hindu and champion of the People's Liberation Army, just returned from a trip to Tibet and reports that the atmosphere was "relaxed". He added that there was no sign of strain or suppression there as people were filled with excitement and the atmosphere was festive. He also says, "The contrast between the old and the new is very powerful, demonstrating what the Chinese government and the system have done for Tibet. Meanwhile, the New York Times reports that authorities have imposed an unofficial state of martial law on the vast highlands where ethnic Tibetans live, with thousands of troops occupying areas they fear could erupt in renewed rioting on a momentous anniversary next week. And Beijing is determined to keep foreigners from seeing the mass deployment . The NY Times also reports that "many of China’s six million Tibetans chose not to celebrate Losar, the Tibetan New Year, in order to mourn Tibetans who suffered ...

Protesting in India

India has been the homeground to a number of unique methods of protesting.  Of course, the traditional protests of burning effigies, walk-outs, sit-outs, stand-ins still continues, but over the course of time new methods have evolved. Gandhiji started it with his Satyagrahas, Salt March and hunger fasts. Hunger fasts have been transformed from an event where one individual fasts until his demands have been met or he has died to a relay fast where protesting members take turns in fasting for a few hours.  Every year, Valentine's Day is a struggle between right wing nut cases trying to teach "Indian culture" to the masses and a bunch of people trying to out-West the West in Public Displays of Affection. This year's struggle resulted  in the the  Consortium of Pub-going, Loose and Forward Women sending pink underwears to a right-wing group which was against Public Displays of Affection. Now, the  Kannada Chalavali Vatal Paksha president, has challenged the Governor, Chi...

Creating Ourselves

Much has been written, and spoken, about the historic inauguration of Barack Obama as the first African-American President of the United States. But I thought Mr.Obama said it best himself , in the article he wrote for Time magazine in 2005: "“ ...a larger, fundamental element of American life — the enduring belief that we can constantly remake ourselves to fit our larger dreams .”

Birding at Kumarakom

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We'd heard so much about Kumarakom , and the thousands of birds that make this area their home every winter, and we decided that a trip to Kerala would not be complete without a visit to this avian resort. As soon as we entered, we were told by the staff at the gate that we had come at the wrong time and that we should come in May-June for the best bird sightings. We were then hustled into purchasing a "Safari tour" which for most of the time consisted of a Kerala State Tourism Development Corporation employee in a loud motorboat scaring the birds away. A few houseboats on the Vembanad lake cruised by, fully equipped with satellite TV dishes, Air Conditioners and deck chairs. In the peak December holiday season they rent for about Rs.12,000 per day. Once we crossed the houseboats, and cut the motor, we got sight of some of the birds we had come to see. The walking tour, which took us through dense vegetation showed some birds and marketing that we had not seen earlier....

Traveling by Indian Railways

After almost a decade, I made reservations for traveling by Indian Railways and the experience has been as easy as booking an air ticket on Southwest Airlines. When I was in school, and the designated ticket-booker at home, one had to leave home early enough (and 30 days in advance) to reach the booking counter in Madras Central at 7 AM when the counter opened, , fill the form with the passenger names, ages and desired berth (UB/LB) and then watch the ticketing agent enter in all the details with a single finger. This would be followed by a confirmation of ticket availability, or  a discussion on whether RAC 26 had a chance of getting confirmed, give exact change or go back with exact change to pick up the tickets. Cleartrip has removed much of the excitement (and pain) of getting the cardboard tickets (before computer-printed tickets were available) - now it's enter the orign and destination, the date and class, pay and print.  We've planned a completely train-centric holiday ...

How to give directions and phone numbers in India

Since we do not have a national addressing plan (or atleast one that is uniformly enforced), giving directions in India is an art, rather than a mechanical activity (turn left at 5th Ave and right at 1st Main) Here's an example of giving directions in Bangalore: From FORUM (PVR Cinema side) enter into Koramangala 5th Block, you will come across HDFC Bank, do Proceed 50 meters further you will come across Standard Chartered Bank and a Duetsch Bank ATM's Both side by side. Take a right turn and again a Second left you will come across AEROFITNESS Center (It is a MULTI GYM) walk/drive further after the AEROFITNESS Center you come across a Park with a WIPRO Board on it. We are diagonally opposite to the other end of the park. It's the same case with phone numbers - I give my phone number to a caller - 9008x-yyyyy. The person says, "Is it 90 08x yy yyy ?" It does not sound like my phone number and I say again - it's 9008x-yyyyy. And so it goes on - giving dir...

Back to Bangalore

Moved to Bangalore one more time. The first time I arrived in Bangalore, in 1992, it was a city where you could leave at 1:45 PM for a 2 PM Saturday movie, reach in time and with Rs.100 in your pocket, you could get a balcony ticket, a nice cup of strong coffee from India Coffee house, a book from Gangaram's and still have enough money to take an autorickshaw home. After growing up in the perpetually parched Chennai with walls lined with political movie posters, the heat and the humidity, Bangalore was the closest I got to a resort - great weather, tree-lined avenues, a company shuttle to take us to and from work and a salary. Now, 16 years later, the city is divided into gated ghettos , which have their own power supply, water supply, playgrounds and security. None of them have, as far as I know, declared their own foreign policy yet. Going for a movie is a day-trip and drains your wallet. The roads are congested with no discipline - any attempt at following traffic discipline is...

Working Together in Politics

The results of the freebie-loaded elections in Karnataka are coming out and the parties have started their posturing Congress can work with JD(S) : Congress No tie-up with BJP or Cong : JD(S) No question of tie-up with JD(S) : BJP As our high school textbooks said, it is left as an exercise for the reader to determine which parties can work together.